Archive for November, 2006
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Dan, Ramil and I dawn patrolled it this morning and it was almost a complete washout. Dan rode his “…Lost” board, Ramil had his August longboard and I rode my 8’4″ August in hopes of making it to the outside and catching a few bombs. The inside was so churned up and and the drift was so bad that I was the only one to make it past the 5ft shore-break to the outside…and that took almost half an hour of solid paddling. Talk about a workout. I got lucky and hit a dead spot in the break and made a mad dash for the outside. After waiting out there for about five minutes or more for the right wave I caught one 1-2 ft over-head wave, made the drop on backside, one turn and rode the whitewater all the way to the beach. That pretty much ended our morning surf session. Out of all three of us, only one sizeable wave was caught. Dan rode a couple shorebreak washers but nothing to write home about. What a disappointment. Hopefully tomorrow will look a little better but the wind’s still due to continue. The weekend didn’t yield much better results.... Continue Reading
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Over the past week I’ve been trying to keep my mouth shut about a possible life change and today the final decision was made. I’m leaving Native Remedies, the company that first brought me down to Florida in the first place. I know, I know, a sad day. Today I tendered my two weeks notice to my long time friend Dean Luntz so that I may join a design firm in West Palm Beach. The drive’s a bit more but it is well worth it. The new company is Boalt, an Interactive Design Agency. I was contacted at the end... Continue Reading
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I’m curious to see how the surf pans out this weekend. Dangerous surf conditions, deadly rip currents. Sounds like a hurricane swell and if caught at the right time those can be a blast! It looks like it’s time to dig out the shortboards. There’s probably no way I can get the log out through the heavy chop and drift. This weekend looks like it’s going to be a workout. It’s been a few months since I’ve been on a shortboard so I’m sure to eat it a few times before I get used to it once again. Nothing says... Continue Reading
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The storm front is definitely here and the rain won’t stop. So gloomy I just want to curl up in bed and sleep all day. At least the surf will be up over the weekend and I love surfing in the rain. It always cleans up the sets and there’s something surreal about sitting out there, waiting for your set and watching the rain dance off of the water around you. All you hear is the crashing waves and the gentle rhythm of the rain. My only worry is that it’ll be “victory at sea” and it’ll be too choppy... Continue Reading
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Oh man, was this close to rolling out of bed this morning and hitting another sunrise surf session. Geez, I’m glad I didn’t do that. The waves have been steadily dropping off all day and right about now, they’re flat. The Surfline forecast for the rest of the week is looking promising though. This weekend it’s calling for 5-7ft, head-high to two ft overhead and poor conditions. Big chop! Hell yeah, Sunday looks to be the day to hit the beaches. The wind forecast is calling for 21-30mph winds out of the north east. Until then it’s time to clean... Continue Reading
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Ah, so much to talk about but until I’ve got a better grasp on what’s going on I’ll just have to remain ambiguous with my meaning. Did that make sense…of course not. Anyway, I’ve got a lot on my mind recently as some of you are aware. No, I’m not going to be a father and no I’m not getting married so Mom, calm down. As things unfold I’ll be sure to keep you updated. Until then just hang tight. In the meantime, the surf is flat, the weather is rainy and I need a nap. Note: it’s nothing “bad”.... Continue Reading
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