After a full day of watching perfect surf go by without a way to get the board to the beach (and time to surf because of deadlines) I was able to talk my neighbor Patrick into hitting the beach.

I forgot how happy just being in the water and catching a nice glassy ride really made me. So miss that feeling. Patrick is only starting out but he was doing fairly well.

The surf was 2-4 ft and completely glassy and peeling. I took the longboard out and caught a ton of rides, grinning from ear to ear. We went out early in the morning and once again around 4pm. The latter set was a bit smaller but still rideable. The water felt amazing and I can’t wait till hurricane season comes along once again. The odd rantings of all South Florida surfers, haha.

Looks like we’re going to enjoy more surf over the next few days. I made an evening run out to the beach before sundown yesterday and caught a few guys out at La Puerta on Palm beach catching some nice clean 3-4 beauties. Mild offshore breeze and glassy rollers…makes me wish I had four wheels again to get the board to the beach.

Hopefully Spencer is heading out later today; maybe I’ll see if I can catch a ride out if so. It’s a little chilly this morning at 43 degrees but I’m sure it’ll warm up as the day goes on.

Surfs up!

This really made my month. Early Saturday morning I got the call from Spencer, a neighbor kid in the building, to see if I’d be up for hitting the surf. The forecast looked good but the temperature was right around 49 degrees. Screw it, I’m not passing up the opportunity and I’m glad I didn’t.

The air was a bit chilly but with the wetsuit on it wasn’t too bad. I grabbed my 8’4″ Robert August long board and we hit the beach on Palm Beach Island. I think it was near Puerto (street name) and it was awesome.

Big 5-6 foot sets with 7-9 foot standout sets. Amazing clear blue skies and offshore winds just held the waves up, some even barreled in. I dropped into a few beauties. Wow, that felt good. We haven’t had much in the way of surf lately but this was pristine.

After surfing for hours we headed back to the building, grabbed some beers and hung out in the hot tub just thawing out. What a great day to get in the water.

Only two gnarly wipeouts but I’ve had much worse. Thanks for the call Spence!

The inside was a bit dumpy so I paddled about 300 yards offshore and caught an epic 7 footer. Just flying down the line on a ride that went on forever. What a great wave. I caught a few others but that made my month.

I almost dropped into a larger wave but thought twice about it after staring down a 10+ foot face wave. I wasn’t feeling that brave on Sunday, haha.

I walked back from the beach which only took about a half hour. Not too bad. Overall a decent day at the beach.

My daily ride consists of heading over to the beach and taking a look at the surf, though I have no idea when I’ll have a chance to get back in the water again. I have yet to try out getting a ride over. To be honest the surf hasn’t really warranted time off of work and begging for a ride over with the board. The surf season is upon us though so I’m sure it’ll happen soon enough.

The last time I was in the water I tweaked my lower back a over a month ago.

Currently it’s just wind chop out of the south so mostly rights (when you drop into a “right”, you go right on the wave). I’m a goofy footer so I always prefer lefts, haha.