Last night’s surf session was a long time coming. It’s been a while since I’ve been back in the water, cold as it may be but it was well worth it. Waist to chest-high sets rolling in clean and with the chilly offshores the waves just stood straight up. Though most were gnarly close-outs you could occasionally catch a beaded shoulder and zip down the line.
What’s best is that all of the boys were out with me. Ramil, Dan, Frederico and Mary (though technically she’s not a boy). It was good to be in the water with friends. We surfed from 5 to about dark and it was so much fun. Exhausting and freezing but you know me. I love it!






