Last night, despite my mood, exhaustion and the creeping darkness I hit Delray for a couple waves right after work. Hauled ass home and grabbed the log (Robert August Longboard) and met my buddy Pat down on the beach. The winds died down but the sets were still coming in.

The paddle out took about 10 minutes of solid paddling and/or swimming when a set came through and I had to bail off the log. Finally I made it to the outside, about 250 yards out and caught my breath. First set that came through after that I was on and wow, I’m glad I dropped into that one. Wiped away a ton of stress and cleared the cobwebs out and right there I knew I was glad to be passionate about surfing. The wave was about 7ft tall, big wall of moving joy. What a ride.

Next wave took some time to get to as well but it was just about as good as the first. I caught that one all the way in to the beach and called it a day. Daylight was fast retreating and the streetlights were beginning to flicker on. Aside from that I saw some pretty big fish just outside of where I was sitting and they didn’t look like dolphin, if you get what I mean.

Not sure if there’s going to be anything left today here’s hoping. Once again, just glad to get in the water and catch two. Even if it was only two they were probably better than anything I’ve had in months.