Whew, that was a shoulder burner. Delray was host to some nice size swell last night. Most sets were in the 4-6 ft. range though some standout sets were 8+ and monsters. Big and nicely lined up lefts on the outside. What a ride too, I caught five decent ones with one or two that are meant for dreams. The drop was tough as the wind made it tough to get down the face but once you were on it, you were in for a treat! Long open face (if you caught the shoulder) and plenty of room to carve. Nice. I was only lit up twice, once I was caught on the inside while a wall of whitewater landed on my head and the second was just on my way out. I got tossed onto my own board and got beat pretty bad. Check out the photos here. I didn’t take too many as I’d rather be in the water. I didn’t even catch a photo of the big ones but, trust me, they were there.
Today looks like a cleaner version of yesterday and if the swell dies down enough for me to sneak the longboard out I’ll be set!