Oh man am I sore today. I surfed from around 8:30am to around 3 pm yesterday and I’m still feeling it. I had one really gnarly wipe-out that tweaked my lower back pretty bad so now I’m feeling like an old man, grunting and groaning when I get out of my chair or have to bend over and pick something up. The wipe-out started out as a pretty good wave, paddled in and made the drop… almost. I decided to take a high line on the face since it worked well for me earlier on a fantastic ride. Once I turned the board high on the face my back foot slipped off the board and the wave then caught the fin and threw the board out from under me and up towards my head. So I threw my arms up and braced for impact all the while going over the lip backwards. Slammed the bottom, hit my board with my side and head. Hopped up and smiled, “damn that sucked”. I kept surfing anyway, hey it’s not often I can surf all day.

The waves were a consistent 3-4 ft chop that occasionally peaked around 5 ft and lined up nicely. From what I’ve gathered from Dan’s surf report this morning there’s not much left for today. Good thing I guess since I can barely move, though I probably would hit the waves regardless.