
This really made my month. Early Saturday morning I got the call from Spencer, a neighbor kid in the building, to see if I’d be up for hitting the surf. The forecast looked good but the temperature was right around 49 degrees. Screw it, I’m not passing up the opportunity and I’m glad I didn’t.
The air was a bit chilly but with the wetsuit on it wasn’t too bad. I grabbed my 8’4″ Robert August long board and we hit the beach on Palm Beach Island. I think it was near Puerto (street name) and it was awesome.
Big 5-6 foot sets with 7-9 foot standout sets. Amazing clear blue skies and offshore winds just held the waves up, some even barreled in. I dropped into a few beauties. Wow, that felt good. We haven’t had much in the way of surf lately but this was pristine.
After surfing for hours we headed back to the building, grabbed some beers and hung out in the hot tub just thawing out. What a great day to get in the water.
Only two gnarly wipeouts but I’ve had much worse. Thanks for the call Spence!





