Yesterday, during one of my quick runs to the beach right before lunch I was both pleasantly surprised and disheartened by the sight of a group of about 20 surfers all lined up waiting for perfect little 3 foot glassy waves.
Perfect little peelers on a super glassy, sun-shiny day. Ugh, and this was at noon so in order for me to have any chance of going surfing the swell would have to last at least 4-5 hours allowing me time to finish work and get my ass to the beach.
Unfortunately, this didn’t happen. At least I had a chance to see others get some pretty good rides and spend 20 minutes at the beach “mind surfing” my own empty sets.
Time to start crossing my fingers for the next swell…it’s coming…right?







