9am and the phone was ringing with the sound of “surf’s up” and I was out of bed and running. I met Dan in Delray and it was chilly, rainy and glassy. Sweet! The only problem was every wave that came in was right. Geez, every one of em’. Now I know how you regular-footed surfers out there feel, surfing lefts all day long. I got pretty used to going backside by mid-day. The wind changed direction and kicked up around noon to mainly out of the south with a slight offshore direction which meant two things; open faces on the larger sets and that the magic wouldn’t last much longer. On the lower tide most sets coming in were chest high or better but by the time the tide filled in everyone was scrambling for scraps.

The crowd wasn’t too bad as I found a sweet sandbar about a quarter mile south of the normal S4 pack. Surfed that with a pretty good northern drift all day until my arms felt like Jell-O and the shoulder began bugging me again.

Friday night’s session at the Dunes was pretty good as well. Lefts and rights but without the good sandbar a lot of the waves were too mushy. Still, the longboard ruled the day. Love that thing!