Epic was the best way of describing today’s surf. Bill graciously let me out of the office 3 hours early (knowing I’ll make them up later this week) so I could take advantage of the swell of the year. Wow! This was full on crazy 10ft+ drops.

My first wave was phenominal. I waited for about 20 minutes till I got one to myself and paddled my ass off. The drop was amazing, over 10 feet easy. Looking up the face I could not touch the lip with my hands if I tried and I was even taking a high line which means there was at least 5-6 feet below me to the bottom of the face. What a great ride and the new board performed amazingly. Great speed, manuverability and paddle speed. Love it.

The photos I took were when the swell was beginning to die down and my shoulders were completely done from paddling. I’ll try and upload some tomorrow morning from the set but the shot above should give you and idea of the size of a moderate size wave. Keep in mind the lighter set in front leaves room for about 3 feet below the guy on his feet.

On a mournful note Ramil lost his prize Arakawa shortboard on a perilous drop. Snapped it in two and the line-up moaned upon the news. Sorry bro – time for a new shorty.